Maine. Lobsters, moose, pine trees and craggy coastlines. It’s a state rich and diverse in natural beauty. And perhaps no place calls up visions of quintessential Maine more than Bar Harbor.
This is where my ride begins, in Bar Harbor on Maine's Mount Desert Island. Bar Harbor has been a vacation destination since the days of the Abnaki Indians, and was originally incorporated as the town of Eden in 1796.
It wasn't known as Bar Harbor until the early 20th century when the town officially changed it's name. Today, Bar Harbor is a well-appointed vacation spot with art galleries, restaurants, boutique shopping and resorts. It is a mix of old money estates and working class merchants. It’s also the perfect jumping off point for a full-day tour of some of the best Maine has to offer.
The ride begins in downtown Bar Harbor and heads east on Route 3. After only a few miles into the ride, I decide to take the suggested detour via Park Loop Road. That decision pays off big time as I lean into the final left hand bend that takes me to the summit of Cadillac Mountain.
In three and a half short -- but twisty -- miles, I traveled from a forest of evergreens to this exposed peak; the highest coastal point on America’s eastern seaboard. Had I been here several hours earlier I would have been among an intrepid group of travelers assembled to be the first people in the United States to lay their eyes on the rising sun. But now, under a brilliant blue sky, and with a fresh breeze in my face, I’m treated to a spectacular 360º panoramic view of one of North America’s oldest vacation destinations: Down East Maine. The Park Loop is a magnificent one-way parkway -- a well-paved, 20 mile twisting treat for the motorcyclist -- that winds its way through Acadia National Park, following the eastern coast of Mount Desert Island before turning inland and past Cadillac Mountain (a must!) before rejoining Route 3.
I continue along my way, following the lobster claw outline of Mount Desert Island’s coast. The ocean-facing sections of the Island bare only scrubby vegetation and stunted evergreens - the result of timeless exposure to the harsh climate of the northern Atlantic. Heading inland and away for the ocean, however, I find myself in increasingly protected surroundings. In a few short miles from the ocean’s edge, I’m riding along leafy, tree-lined streets and past houses trimmed with window boxes.
Moto-Maps
Having made a full circuit around the island – from rocky coast to mountain summit, from barren seascape to postcard villages – I head across an unassuming bridge and onto the mainland. The ride then takes a quick loop down to Oak Point and up to Ellsworth and Route 1. Following Route 1 for about 6 miles, I turn left and head east down Route 182. Here, the salt air is replaced with the scent of pine and earth; ocean views with lake views. Route 182 pulls me further inland and I find myself winding my way through mighty pines and spruce and evergreens of all kinds. The road is largely shaded with streaks of sunlight piercing through the upper branches. About halfway between Franklin and Cherryfield, I pull over on the wide gravel shoulder past Tunk Lake on the shore of Long Pond where the water ebbs in and practically touches the pavement. I enjoy the stretch and the photo taking, but it seems it’s the wrong time of day for moose spotting.
A full day behind me and a setting sun on my back, I find myself replaying the day’s ride in my mind – sad to see it go. The ocean to the left of me is lonely now – peaceful, as I roll back into Bar Harbor.
Lobsters, moose, pine trees and craggy coastlines. In one day I’ve seen it all. Well, except for the moose. I’ll just have to plan another trip.
This month’s featured ride is provided by Moto-Maps' from their Maine booklet and is reported by the company’s web designer and product advisor, Eric Myers.
Click on the map, legend and directions below to enlarge.
Get a FREE Issue of Rider Magazine!. Enter your trial subscription and you'll receive a Risk-Free Issue. If you like Rider, pay just $12 for 11 more issues (12 in all). Otherwise, write "cancel" on the bill, return it, and owe nothing.
